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    Certain clichés, some more tenacious than others, define generations of Indian restaurants in the United States. It’s a font, the type stylized with curly, pointy-ended serifs. It’s a basket of cold, black-edged papad dressed up as bread service. Usually, though, it’s a menu of naan and curry, pleasing in its soft, warm vagueness. And so when the chef Preeti Mistry opened her first restaurant, she wanted to avoid as many of those clichés as possible. “I wanted to do something that was the opposite of all of that,” Mistry said. At first, she railed against naan and curry. It pained her that India’s vast cuisine was still, so often, reduced to that pairing. “I wanted to bring something that was more out there, that didn’t really exist yet,” she said.

    What Mistry brought was Juhu Beach Club, a small restaurant in Oakland that opened in 2013, where she cooked with ingredients from the farmers’ market. In “The Juhu Beach Club Cookbook,” which Mistry wrote with Sarah Henry last fall, she tells the story of how she grew up tasting Indian street food on the beaches of Mumbai, longing to eat more than her mother’s home-cooked meals and sneaking cans of Coke at friends’ houses. By the time she was working in the basement kitchen of Claridge’s in London, Mistry knew that cooking would be her path.

    She started with a pop-up inside a liquor store in San Francisco, where she moved in the ’90s, crushing cloves and cardamom in a coffee grinder and bringing her spice pastes from home. Eventually, she opened Juhu Beach Club, and though it closed in January, it was authentic to Mistry’s complex point of view as a first-generation Indian-American — one born in London to Asian parents from East Africa, raised in the American Midwest, cheffing in Northern California.

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  • “A lot of old-school Indian restaurants won’t use black salt because they think it’s going to be too weird,” said Mistry, referring to the dark rock salt crystals, pungent with sulfur, often used to season and bring depth to chaats and other food. “I love it, it’s awesome. It has this flavor and funk that’s really distinctive. And I’m not pandering to anyone.” Mistry put black salt in tangy, crunchy salads when she felt it belonged in them and cooked the way she liked. She bought locally grown fenugreek leaves for methi chicken, and built chaat with fresh green chickpeas. She fried the thin, crisp, delicate chickpea noodles to make sev in house, and served them with persimmons when they were in season. “I thought about the building blocks of sev puri,” Mistry said. “I thought about the elements like any chef would think about a classic dish.”

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    There were waffles on the weekends. Mistry cooked them from the same kind of fermented batter typically used to make dosa. And each summer, there was the conundrum of the tomato salad. Every California restaurant has a summery tomato salad of some kind, Mistry explained. A riff of some sort on a caprese — tomatoes, mozzarella, herbs. Mistry wanted one, too, and she experimented with many versions. There was the one with soft, creamy paneer made from fresh milk, standing in for mozzarella. But Mistry said it had too many bells and whistles. Then a few years ago, she came up with a tomato salad that drew from the flavors of a kachumber — a raw, roughly chopped salad sometimes seasoned with only cumin seeds and lemon juice. It’s this one, which I made in my Brooklyn kitchen again and again throughout August and September, that showed me very clearly what I’d miss after Juhu Beach Club closed.

    To put it together, Mistry made something resembling a green-goddess dressing — herbs blitzed with a little yogurt, vinegar and oil. Then she seasoned plain fatty yogurt with toasted, crushed cumin seeds and salt and smeared it all over a plate. She piled a mix of dressed heirloom tomatoes on top, the big ones cut into wedges, the little ones halved. And that was it. “I wanted to make it simple,” Mistry said. “I wanted to make, in the moment, just whatever felt right.”

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  • 군포콜걸동해출장가격◇양산출장만족보장✒〖동두천출장샵[카톡: LD868][kra25.c0m]출장외국인출장연애인급Y┗♖2019-01-24-13-55동두천┯AIJ◦출장업소출장업소오피♣출장소이스홍성┛출장최고시✯동두천〗남원출장마사지✦경주출장소이스╋익산출장업계위♥김제출장시

    It wasn’t a kachumber, not by any definition. Neither could it pass as a caprese, not that it even wanted to. It wasn’t a mash-up of the two, either. It was better — it was something that didn’t really exist yet — delicious, habit-forming and a wonderful thing to do with the last sweet, fat tomatoes of the year.

    출장콜걸김해출장색시미녀언니◈경산출장소이스홍성◊〖동두천출장만족보장(카톡: LD868)《kra25.c0m》역출장안마출장샵예약Y↱⊥2019-01-24-13-55동두천☜AIJ┤출장샵추천콜걸샵출장안마추천↜출장최고시✑출장최고시✚동두천〗서산출장안마야한곳┙충청북도콜걸업소◦강원도출장업소◥경산출장안마추천의정부출장업계위✓보령출장업소⇟〖동두천출장서비스보장《카톡: LD868》《kra25.c0m》출장몸매최고출장색시미녀언니Y➡✈2019-01-24-13-55동두천▪AIJ⇘출장샵후기출장서비스출장오쓰피걸➢출장안마야한곳➽콜걸강추↔동두천〗의정부출장색시미녀언니☜순천출장샵콜걸┸사천출장안마✍전라남도동출장마사지동두천출장샵예약안산동출장마사지✈동두천출장시⇤〖동두천출장소이스『카톡: LD868』(kra25.c0m)콜걸강추콜걸강추Y┻♦2019-01-24-13-55동두천┙AIJ☪출장미인아가씨출장미인아가씨콜걸출장안마⇤출장샵예약포항➦미시출장안마┦동두천〗김해출장외국인↺남양주출장외국인╝제주도콜걸후기▶논산출장샵강추출장콜걸진해출장샵예약⇍공주출장샵콜걸❦〖동두천출장시『카톡: LD868』【kra25.c0m】콜걸출장안마야한곳Y⇠┶2019-01-24-13-55동두천♡AIJ⊙출장미인아가씨출장아가씨오피걸▽오피↯오피▧동두천〗익산출장샵¤삼척출장최강미녀☁광주출장아가씨✖광명콜걸출장안마

  • 애인대행
  • 동두천출장업계위{카톡: LD868}【kra25.c0m】출장샵콜걸출장소이스홍성Y✍◥2019-01-24-13-55동두천◐AIJ◇콜걸콜걸업소콜걸강추✄외국인출장만남”출장샵추천⇉동두천
  • 동두천흥출장안마
  • 문경출장안마☪상주콜걸출장마사지▷〖동두천콜걸출장마사지(카톡: LD868)〖kra25.c0m〗출장몸매최고콜걸출장마사지Y⇖♮2019-01-24-13-55동두천㊣AIJ▀출장최강미녀출장오피콜걸출장마사지U흥출장안마☆출장최강미녀┄동두천〗포항콜걸만남⇪충주출장서비스♦광명출장오쓰피걸♭전주출장서비스

  • 동두천출장서비스보장《카톡: LD868》{kra25.c0m}오피걸출장업계위Y↼♔2019-01-24-13-55동두천♀AIJ✍출장여대생출장샵흥출장안마↺출장여대생♜출장서비스♦동두천
  • 출장대행
  • 대전출장오피⇜상주출장마사지↕〖동두천역출장안마『카톡: LD868』『kra25.c0m』콜걸출장만남Y↸♫2019-01-24-13-55동두천⇌AIJ╝동출장마사지오피걸콜걸강추┧출장외국인┮출장시◦동두천〗통영출장아가씨✌전주출장오쓰피걸⇍보령동출장마사지◦나주출장가격동두천콜걸추천동두천콜걸출장안마【카톡: LD868】《kra25.c0m》출장여대생출장샵강추Y↩↔2019-01-24-13-55동두천┷AIJ⇞출장맛사지출장업계위출장오피╩출장최고시.출장샵예약포항☈동두천

    A version of this article appears in print on , on Page 30 of the Sunday Magazine with the headline: The Last Great Tomato Salad of the Year
  • 평택외국인오피걸
  • 동두천오피걸《카톡: LD868》(kra25.c0m)오피걸출장소이스Y➠◑2019-01-24-13-55동두천☆AIJ☈릉콜걸샵안마오피┓출장샵예약포항☰콜걸추천❤동두천

  • 여수릉콜걸샵W안양출장안마추천♦〖동두천출장샵예약{카톡: LD868}《kra25.c0m》콜걸출장마사지출장최고시Y↺-2019-01-24-13-55동두천ⓔAIJ┲출장아가씨콜걸후기콜걸강추◇출장최고시♭출장안마◐동두천〗하남출장맛사지⇥남원콜걸출장안마‿청주출장색시미녀언니┯포항외국인출장만남
    수원출장아가씨✕김천출장코스가격☽〖동두천출장업계위【카톡: LD868】【kra25.c0m】모텔출장출장외국인Y┾☄2019-01-24-13-55동두천↔AIJ►출장색시미녀언니릉콜걸샵릉콜걸샵✄안마☎출장외국인♥동두천〗경상북도콜걸만남┸사천출장연애인급┫전라북도오피걸☆밀양출장샵콜걸
  • 동두천출장오쓰피걸
  • 동두천콜걸업소
  • 안동콜걸출장마사지↦제천출장오피♗〖동두천출장서비스《카톡: LD868》『kra25.c0m』콜걸만남출장아가씨Y┳☵2019-01-24-13-55동두천─AIJ♂출장샵예약포항출장안마추천출장안마↔출장소이스홍성∴콜걸출장마사지○동두천〗인천출장안마야한곳⇗진주콜걸출장마사지♡시흥출장소이스홍성┬제천출장소이스홍성

  • 동두천출장여대생
  • 출장마사지
  • 출장업소
  • 남양주콜걸➛구미모텔출장♐〖동두천출장만족보장《카톡: LD868》{kra25.c0m}출장샵후기안마Y♥⇄2019-01-24-13-55동두천┋AIJ♟출장연애인급출장만족보장출장샵콜걸☞콜걸샵♬출장연애인급▼동두천〗인천출장몸매최고☑구미출장샵안내╂광양출장샵안내⇣인천동출장마사지애인대행
  • 동두천콜걸출장안마『카톡: LD868』[kra25.c0m]출장시흥출장안마Y═╬2019-01-24-13-55동두천☺AIJ卐오피걸출장안마역출장안마┱모텔출장┠출장코스가격♦동두천
  • 동두천출장연애인급충청북도콜걸업소⇥용인콜걸출장마사지♪ 〖동두천출장가격(카톡: LD868){kra25.c0m}외국인출장만남오피Y╛✓2019-01-24-13-55동두천✯AIJ╙콜걸업소출장맛사지안마⇘출장색시미녀언니➚출장맛사지♂동두천〗군포출장연애인급┲경산출장색시미녀언니├순천출장업소↺공주출장만남동두천출장서비스
  • 동두천출장만남
  • 동두천출장샵추천(카톡: LD868)《kra25.c0m》출장소이스홍성출장여대생Y♨⇌2019-01-24-13-55동두천☟AIJ╰출장서비스콜걸출장샵예약♙콜걸만남◑콜걸출장안마▄동두천
  • 출장마사지
  • 충주동출장마사지↺고양콜걸업소✉〖동두천콜걸샵『카톡: LD868』〖kra25.c0m〗모텔출장출장최강미녀Y❤➷2019-01-24-13-55동두천☜AIJ↠외국인출장만남출장최강미녀출장몸매최고↝출장연애인급↼콜걸샵╕동두천〗수원출장만족보장☋보령모텔출장▥천안출장연애인급◐군포릉콜걸샵
  • 동두천출장샵안내〖카톡: LD868〗〖kra25.c0m〗출장마사지출장연애인급Y✗➨2019-01-24-13-55동두천┺AIJ▬출장코스가격출장서비스보장콜걸만남⊕오피⇁출장샵후기→동두천
  • 동두천출장안마야한곳(카톡: LD868)[kra25.c0m]출장샵출장여대생Y⇆♀2019-01-24-13-55동두천⇚AIJ☀출장만족보장출장색시미녀언니출장가격☄역출장안마⊙출장가격✙동두천
  • 출장업소
  • 동두천흥출장안마
  • 부천콜걸동두천출장미인아가씨[카톡: LD868][kra25.c0m]출장안마추천콜걸샵Y◆╢2019-01-24-13-55동두천┟AIJ✔출장안마출장연애인급출장가격┸콜걸♩콜걸⇘동두천
  • 동두천출장샵콜걸{카톡: LD868}【kra25.c0m】출장샵예약출장업계위Y㊣♝2019-01-24-13-55동두천♔AIJ▫콜걸업소콜걸업소출장샵↣동출장마사지✎콜걸후기╰동두천
  • 출장안마
  • 동두천출장안마《카톡: LD868》〖kra25.c0m〗출장안마출장샵Y╆◘2019-01-24-13-55동두천♩AIJ↖콜걸샵모텔출장출장샵✌출장업소☂출장샵예약포항⇗동두천동두천출장색시미녀언니출장안마동두천출장안마야한곳[카톡: LD868](kra25.c0m)출장업계위출장소이스Y┇√2019-01-24-13-55동두천☝AIJ☠출장샵후기출장샵안내콜걸만남♭출장미인아가씨❣출장가격✿동두천
  • 출장샵
  • 동두천출장오쓰피걸[카톡: LD868]【kra25.c0m】출장몸매최고출장샵콜걸Y✿♣2019-01-24-13-55동두천⇛AIJ▩외국인출장만남출장코스가격출장만족보장☂출장외국인↤출장아가씨W동두천
  • 동두천출장연애인급
  • 동두천[keyword]〖kra25.c0m〗《카톡: LD868》┕동두천출장안마추천┩동두천릉콜걸샵⇀출장소이스홍성☆동두천동출장마사지✕동두천출장색시미녀언니

    안동콜걸업소♗아산출장만족보장⇪〖동두천출장서비스{카톡: LD868}(kra25.c0m)출장미인아가씨출장샵예약Y┯↗2019-01-24-13-55동두천➠AIJ⊙출장색시미녀언니출장샵예약포항오피걸☠출장여대생유출장안마❣동두천〗부산오피☐성남출장안마야한곳↺파주출장업소⇐강릉출장최강미녀창원출장서비스보장➷춘천출장샵콜걸♤〖동두천콜걸업소{카톡: LD868}{kra25.c0m}콜걸샵출장샵후기Y░✡2019-01-24-13-55동두천▪AIJ♦출장업소콜걸출장안마콜걸만남➚출장업소⇔출장여대생╥동두천〗광주오피⇄화성출장샵안내┟인천출장소이스☳전라북도출장최고시동두천출장가격애인대행
  • 동두천콜걸【카톡: LD868】{kra25.c0m}출장코스가격출장아가씨Y♪ ☼2019-01-24-13-55동두천√AIJ☞출장최고시출장오쓰피걸출장맛사지➽모텔출장╓콜걸샵▩동두천
  • 전라남도출장샵예약╋평택출장샵후기╔〖동두천출장오쓰피걸(카톡: LD868)(kra25.c0m)출장안마야한곳콜걸Y↲↩2019-01-24-13-55동두천ⓥAIJ的출장샵콜걸콜걸추천출장최고시✖출장마사지♡출장마사지╢동두천〗강원도콜걸추천◐고양출장만족보장♥김제출장오피▣인천출장색시미녀언니
  • 동두천콜걸출장안마
  • 일본인출장샵
  • jnice01-ina11-an-wb-0175